| Mt. Sanford in background at Huck Hobbit Homestead |
| Cabin at Huck Hobbit's |
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| Class at Huck Hobbit's |
| Roll 'n' Roll School desk |
| Walking from HQ to Boxtown |
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve is my new park. The National Park Service code is WRST so we jokingly say WRST is the Best. https://www.nps.gov/wrst/index.htm
Of course, I love all the parks where I’ve worked but Wrangell does have many superlatives:
--largest National Park in America
--largest Wilderness in National Wilderness Preservation system
--2nd highest mountain in America: St. Elias
--largest piedmont glacier: Malaspina Glacier which is bigger than Rhode Island
--longest glacier: Nabesna Glacier, at approximately 80 miles, is the longest non-polar valley glacier.
--9 of 16 highest peaks in America
-- a World Heritage Site with Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve and the Canadian neighbors Kluane National Park Reserve and Tatshenshini-Alsek National Park. (Making this the world's largest international protected wilderness.)
Our first few days were at Copper Center, just south of Glennallen and headquarters for the park. We stayed at Boxtown, the park facility which was a row of dry cabins with a kitchen area which would eventually have running water. It was a late spring so for my first three weeks in the park there was no running water there or at Westside in McCarthy. Plus snow and ice were everywhere.
Classes those first few days covered the history of the park, interpretation, ANILCA, ANSCA, the Ahtna Center, park administration, etc. Just when I was getting antsy sitting still, we took a field trip to Slana and Huck Hobbit Homestead. Su-lana is the northernmost WRST ranger station, located on the Tok Cutoff. On the way we saw migrating caribou crossing the Copper River.
Staying at Huck Hobbit was the highlight of training. Steve and Joy have homesteaded there since 1985, when there were still homesteads available. By themselves they built a lodge and three cabins. Now they run the place for tourists, mostly Europeans. Joy’s cooking is a joy in itself and Steve sings, plays the guitar, and enchants with his stories of folks in the area. During one of Joy’s fantastic breakfasts, caribou came right by the cabin.
Steve’s stories of his neighbors are hilarious; he told of Lord and his Lady who used to sell tickets to a spaceship, other neighbors who fought over an outhouse until one of them took a chainsaw to the second’s trailer and ripped it in two lengthwise, and Bob and Denise who built the Rock ‘n’ Roll homestead. We floundered out in the deep snow to the Rock ‘n’ Roll cabin which was long deserted because Denise got cancer and they decided to go to Fairbanks for treatment. There, when she died, Bob was so distraught he put her body in a lounge chair in the backyard next to her favorite Harley motorcycle. She might still be there if the neighbors hadn’t complained. Bob called Steve from jail to relate the story.
We spent one day driving up the Nabesna Road, one of only two ways to drive into the park, the other being the McCarthy Road. We visited the Viking public use cabin and counted moose, again.
When we returned to Boxtown, we were supposed to go to Valdez to shop but the pass was snowed under. Instead we visited Ranger Diane’s homestead and had a caribou/salmon BBQ. Homesteading is incredibly hard work with a great deal of improvisation required. Diane has had to reuse, repurpose, and recycle to fence in the horses, ducks, geese and sled dogs.
After two more days of inside classes, we were off to McCarthy. The sixty mile road to get there is an adventure in itself. We spent most of the day learning the waysides and practicing our interpretation techniques on each other. I liked working in groups because we are usually solo when we make our presentations. Again we were counting moose but got to add a gazillion hares, also.
| Our water supply |
| First cabin |
In McCarthy we filled up our water cans for Westside camp from Clear Creek spring where most McCarthyites gets their water. I was happy to get a chance to settle into my summer cabin but was claustrophobic by the 9’x7’ size of it. I’m a light lover and wanted to punch in another window.
| View from the Mill, looking down on Power plant and the Kennicott Glacier |
| In front of leaching plant |
The next day we drove up to Kennecott from McCarthy. The general public has to use the footbridge but the park pays thousands of dollars a year for the right to drive over the only vehicle bridge. Whenever we cross the Kennicott River we must unlock the gate, drive through and lock it up again. Further on we have to splash through the beaver pond across the road. In Kennecott Jamie, head interpreter for the southside, led us on a tour of the Kennecott Copper Corporation’s concentrating mill*, the main building in Kennecott. At fourteen stories it is one of the country’s largest wooden structures.
In the afternoon we walked out to the Root Glacier, strapped on crampons, and went for a short stroll. The Root is one of the most accessible glaciers I’ve ever been on. The ponds on it are a startling aquamarine. After the mill tour, a walk on the glacier is the biggest tourist activity here.
The next day we auctioned off the remaining taco fixings and the HQ rangers left us to our summer in McCarthy.
*try saying that quickly when you’ve had a few beers
| Ponds on the Root Glacier |
| Me on Roo Glacier |
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| McCarthy Airport with Mt. Blackburn in the far distance, Donoho close on the right |
| Scene on from our driveway |


Hi, Charlotte. I appreciate being included on your email list and being able to read about your annual adventures in Alaska. You are an inspiration to me and are as intrepid as the state of Alaska itself! I am enjoying video-chatting with my granddaughter, Sophia, when we can't be together. I will be placing my home on the market next spring and plan on moving back to my home town of Great Falls. All the best to you. Love, Gabrielle
ReplyDeleteLove your stories, always, Charlotte. Thanks for making the effort to entertain us with your wild adventures! Do you like caribou meat? What does it taste like? Monique
ReplyDeleteHey Char,
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing. Having finally making it to Alaska and seeing these incredible glaciers, I appreciate your trekking even more. I was amazed at the incredible colors and the sounds that we heard when looking at them. Of course, we were not as adventurous as you-hiking to these remote glaciers. You continually amaze me!!!
Dearest: I will download this to hardcopy and read it at dinner tomorrow night with daughter and granddaughter. They will love it. We are well, working on pruning, sprinklers, lawn, and trying to give stuff away. Shopping is October 12-13-14. Coco will likely be unable to join us. She is on morphine, and pretty much home bound. I will share your adventures with her on Thursday! Love love love, Star
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing. The photos are really good. Funny stories. The cabin is cute. I would have loved to be there with you all, but not the all that snow. We are having a fairly cool summer. I love gardening.
ReplyDeleteMiss you.
What an adventure. Thanks for sharing. I really think you write well and I'm always anxious to hear from you. Let's get together this winter! I'll tell you my "falling in the creek and breaking my wrist and elbow" story. I'd sure never make it by myself in Alaska. Love, Kathy
ReplyDeleteHi Charlotte -
ReplyDeleteHow cool. That is mighty fine country up there and I hope to get back to it again with Mary Ann someday. Thanks for the post.
Rube