My Trip North from Montana to Wrangell-St. Elias in Alaska
This year, 2018, I am resuming my Alaska blog because I’m moving to a new park, Wrangell St Elias, some 300 miles east of Anchorage, Alaska. Some of my friends delight in reading about my excursions so I will try to entertain them. I am dedicating this blog to all my adventure loving friends, whether they are armchair travelers or frequent flyers themselves.
This spring was a flurry of social connections. I spent the second week in April before leaving saying goodbye to beloved friends in Helena, plus Coco in Missoula, Sufi teacher Star in Hamilton, Darrell in Sula, Rube and Marianne in Hot Springs and Astarte in Cranbrook. The visits were so rich I already had a full adventure just by traveling through western Montana.
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| Maggie Matrix in Banff |
On the way north I saw many deer, elk, wild turkey, honkers and pointy peaks….all before I left Montana. By the time I hit the Canadian Rockies I was nearly jaded with the majestic scenery. Oh, hum! Not! I never get tired of the mountains. Instead, there was an anticipation of the wonders of the summer, the increasing daylight, the leaving behind of traffic, confusion, and a crazy world. I felt lighter the further north I went. All those wonderful intangibles that I love come out to dance with me in my summers in the Yukon and Alaska: freedom, creativity, imagination, earth appreciation, soul release!
As I crossed over into Canada I inhaled the fine mountain air and sang along to the Arrogant Worms: “Canada’s Really Big,” “I Am the Beaver,” and “Last Pirate of Saskatchewan”. As always, I find myself pulled into the American myth of Canada in which we believe everyone there is more polite, cleaner, more sensible politically. Unfortunately none of my good friends in Canada have done anything to dispel that myth. Instead, with their openness and kindness, they just help to perpetuate it. I’m ready to marry the first Kanuk, male or female, who will sponsor me.
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| Flag of Canada in Jasper |
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| Maligne Canyon near Hostel |
This winter a velociraptor bit into my shoulder and shook me. I tried to fight him off but he’s still hanging on and I have to drag him around with me all day and night. The amazing power of my imagination has yet to allow me to wrest him off. Damn!!!! Nothing seems to be helping my poor bone grinding, bone spur/nerve impinging left shoulder. As my little Toyota Matrix whirred across the miles and provinces of British Columbia and Alberta, I had to travel many leagues mentally to accept that I’m not impervious to the ravages of age and pain. Until this month, I’ve always held on to the idea that I could still bike anywhere I wished, and use my body however I wanted. Charlotte the bicyclist! Charlotte the hiker! Am I really going to accept the frailty of my body? Maybe the Hot Springs would help?
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| Charlotte at Liard Campground |
I took one of my favorite routes north this year. Up the west side of Rockies to Radium Hot Springs, east to the Banff/Jasper Parkway, an overnight at Maligne Hostel in Jasper, another day going through Grand Cache, Grand Prairie, and overnighting in Fort St. John. The third day through Fort St. Nelson, Muncho Lake and on to a campsite at Liard Hot Springs is the longest day but also my favorite one. There were caribou, sheep, bison, more pointy peaks, winding roads, Toad River, only a trace of traffic. I felt happily all alone on the road as I drove by frozen lakes, avalanche chutes, rock slides, etc. When I got to the hot springs, I soaked out all the road aches, trotted back to my car and jumped into my sleeping bag while I was still toasty.
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| Liard River before breakup |
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| Liard Hot Spring |
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| Woods bison on way to Watson Lake |
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| Spring bog |
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| Yukon Sunset at 10:30 pm |
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| Yukon Bear knows she is home again! |
Day Four northward was on to Skagway, Alaska where Deb had supper waiting for me and a bed in her outer cabin. She ran an electric cord from her cabin to mine so I could be comfortable inside with just a space heater. I spent the next four days socializing, eating at Starfire, the Sweet Tooth and BrewCo , talking over breakfast, lunch and supper until the staff was looking to see if I’d brought my sleeping bag. Which I didn’t, because next Cassie and Simon rolled out the red carpet and I just continued the conversation at their home for a few nights. Friday was another breakfast with indigenous friends from the Yukon. They presented themselves and their culture at the park auditorium for ranger and guide training.
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| Charlotte at the Sweet Tooth wearing Drew's Size 15s |
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| Pickaxe Lake |
After five days of people, I continued on to Whitehorse where I was very homesick for Jim. I even drove by yoga to see if he was at class before I got myself in hand and reprimanded myself for looking backwards and not forward. Saturday was a lovely drive through Kluane National Park along the lakeshore. In Beaver Creek I got a reasonably priced room at Buckshot Betty’s. There I tramped around in the mud and snow until I found a geocache. It was good to have a hot bath and some time alone.
Sunday found me geocaching and last minute shopping in Tok. I was in Glenallen by four where I met my new boss, South District Interpreter, Jamie Hart, and Ranger Dianne, an old friend from Denali. We settled into Boxtown for two weeks of training at the Copper Center Headquarters. Everything was still covered with snow and we had to haul water but the cabins were heated. Most of the time!!
